Course 2: The staff loved the Meyer lemon kombucha at family meal so much that Manning made it into the base of this refreshing scallop crudo. Restaurant obsessives want to know what’s new, what’s hot, and which favorite chef just launched a sophomore effort. She knows how to mix a delicious cocktail, sure, but what makes Chelsea Gregoire such a game changer at Baltimore’s True Chesapeake Oyster Co. (where she's also the general manager) is her radical, generous-spirited approach to inclusiveness: Her actual goal is to make sure that everyone feels at home. This is very beautiful and very serious food served in a very beautiful and very serious space. He folded the beaten eggs methodically with chopsticks until they formed tidy little omelet pillows, which he set between slices of cloud-soft milk bread spread with spicy mustard and mayo that he then carefully trimmed two crusts off of, like some loving parent making a PB&J for a five-year-old. Occasionally dim sum can be a bit of a bait-and-switch: divine in the abstract, disappointing in execution, at least in the United States. Max Leonard’s housemade bread comes served with Smoky Carrot Dip, Beet and Hazelnut Dip, and Hummus With Pistachio Dukkah. Toto, we’re not in a food court anymore: Pay attention to the way the foie gras segues into the rice in the kimbap; tune in to that sustained power chord of heat hovering behind the raw fish in the hwedupbap. Noma Reopened With Burgers Served at Picnic Tables. A gratis dessert when service is slow. Course 7: That grated white stuff? Cutlets get a drizzle of tonkatsu sauce, then mustard. Thai Diner. From a gastropub in Newton to a ramen shop in Chinatown, from a BYOB private dinner party in Brookline to a Cambridge bakery by way of Iran, these are some of the most interesting new restaurants and pop-ups to debut in the most difficult year the restaurant industry has seen Making noodles from scratch isn't easy or fast, but Sirisavath says you can taste the labor and the love that goes into them. Wet khao soy with rice noodles, mushrooms, and fermented pork. I showed up at 11 a.m.: sold out. Grand Tavern by David Burke Celebrity chef David Burke brings to St. Louis a sampling of his time-tested classics, such as clothesline bacon, lobster steak, and a 34-ounce salt–aged porterhouse (pictured). 13 Exciting New Restaurants in Minneapolis and St. Paul Right Now, December 2020 Sunny breakfast sandwiches, charred pizza crust, and beer cheese ribs by Joy Summers @JoyEstelle Updated Dec 3, 2020, 10:26am CST Instead, there’s a refreshing graciousness and hospitality—a sense that everyone is actually happy you’re here. Baltimore (yeah, Baltimore) can now make rightful claim to having the sexiest third-date spot in America. Whitaker installed the wood-fired oven specifically for baking his signature piada, a fluffy, hot, pita-like disk of bread made with heirloom grains. THE MOVE: Desserts are wild and not to be overlooked. (We mean this as a compliment: Bon Temps is a restaurant with multiple personalities.) THE MOVE: Don’t share—each dish is only a few bites. ALCOVE. Because as I stood there, on an Echo Park sidewalk in front of the shop next door that sells vegan cheesecakes and crystals, and shamelessly covered myself in the deep-golden crumbs of a croissant so fresh that the ample amount of chocolate inside hadn’t yet returned from its melted state, I knew: This was the best croissant I’d ever had, and it was worth it. Konbi uses Miyako brand. You may be able to find more information about this and similar content at piano.io, Esquire's Best New Restaurants in America, 2020, The New York Dinners We Thought We’d Have Again, Masterpiece Pies and the Mission Behind Them, It's Not Just the Food I Miss at Restaurants, Chef Michael Lomonaco Knows How to Start Over. The restaurant, owned by chef Chris Hodge, serves tacos, nachos, burritos, and rice bowls free of dairy, eggs, and, of course, meat. There are two things in this package that are going to upset a lot of people in Texas. You could easily conjure a full meal from the canapés alone, relishing the way Lincoln Carson brings a pastry chef’s mind-set to savory nuggets like the tomato tartare and the chicken liver puff, but then you’d miss all the other stuff he excels at. THE MOVE: Make a reservation. Course 1: Snacks at Longoven mean a tiny nasturtium-covered carrot-mole tart, a fried squid ink “churro,” and nori crackers with smoked mackerel. Every day since then I have thought about Konbi. One: naming Dallas our restaurant city of the year, which I have a feeling a lot of people in Houston and Austin are, uh, not gonna like. The deeply savory pandan chicken, a compact triangle of minced chicken, is wrapped in aromatic pandan leaves that impart a sweet and grassy aroma. Here are the spots we’re obsessed with, whether for the food, the drinks, the vibe, or the mission behind it all. Andrew Zimmern on COVID-19 and Broken Food Systems. Seven Reasons at 2208 Fourteenth Street NW, As I held an oyster to my nose, I noticed something. They hand-cut a tartare that practically glistens, the steak tossed in colatura (anchovy sauce) and served with roughed-up golden hunks of potato that made me question how I ever could’ve enjoyed steak tartare any other way. Two: what I’m about to say about a breakfast-taco joint…that’s also a barbecue joint…that’s in the most un-Texas location imaginable—Portland, Oregon. Mester didn’t want to be the type of chef who oversees lots of stations; the kitchen is just he and his sous-chef, Kelsey Martin, who runs point on the bread and baked goods. Kith/Kin at 801 Wharf Street SW. Course 6: Manning turns pig ears into paper-thin sheets, then crowns them with peas and beans of all types. At a time when design trends come and go so fast (ahem, pink neon), it’s unusual to step into a space with such a deep sense of character. And finally I learned her story: how her cooking is influenced by her background as Baba-Nyonya (sometimes called Nyonya or Peranakan), the descendants of Chinese settlers in Malaysia. Guests can choose between a lively bar area and a more formal and sedate dining room. But if there’s any place in the country that’s making this quintessential genre feel fresh and new and fun and youthful, it’s Baltimore’s Le Comptoir du Vin. That neighborhood (Scott’s Addition) is in a city (Richmond) that’s only very recently begun to draw attention as a dining destination. At Konbi they crack dozens of eggs each day for the signature pork katsu sandwich. The Wolf's Tailor uses an extruder to make various pasta shapes, such as the paccheri and mafaldine shown here. And the Japanese highballs made with ice so crazy-clear I could see through the cubes halfway across the room (and nearly spilled half my drink trying to do so). Benne on Eagle. Ten minutes north of the White House and its sour, divisive rhetoric, immigrants are throwing a party. After a rent hike forced Pang to close her original location, she and Tsai teamed up to open this expanded, sunny space in June 2018. There are approximately 12 dishes on the menu at Khao Noodle Shop, each only a few bites or spoonfuls, and none costs more than $8. Please don’t hate me. —A.S. This is not the first restaurant to serve French classics in a cozy, warmly lit, slightly ramshackle bistro setting. I later emailed Onal about the braised artichoke, and she sent me a delicate, multistep recipe involving olives, lemon peel, parsley, mint, and sweet onion. Cooks dip the pork cutlets in egg yolk, letting the excess drip off. I’m willing to bet you have never tried an eggplant curry as assertive as Techamuanvivit’s gaeng bumbai aubergine. Then, because I was confident that this soap would improve my life, I ordered it on the flight home. Small dishes help create a Lao street food experience. I have never had a more perfect artichoke than the one I wolfed down during lunch one afternoon at Green Almond Pantry. And at Odo, chef Hiroki Odo prepares a kaiseki meal—with sushi by Seong Cheol Byun midway through, as a sort of symphonic movement with a guest soloist—that delivers one seasonal surprise after another. A greasy slice has its charm, but partaking of a civilized meal before a game or after work … After years of running his pop-up restaurant VEA, Surti can turn any space into a kitchen, including the bar counter of Tailor. He eventually settled in Portland and opened a trailer—Matt’s BBQ—in the parking lot of a pawnshop. Step through the door of the windowless building in Culver City and get time-warped to a bygone Hollywood era of steaks and oysters Rockefeller and martinis. Kaya butter toast, with a thick layer of pandan leaf and coconut jam sandwiched between two golden slices of fluffy bread, is a must-order. Fact: Breakfast tacos just taste better outside. The tasting menu option comes with a bowl of this cozy, congee-like porridge. I’ve thought about my next visit to L.A., when I vowed not to leave without one of Konbi’s coveted croissants, of which only 36 are made daily. Clockwise from top: diver scallops, albacore tostadas, and New York steak at Terrace by Mix Mix. There are so damn many of them all over the country, and for the most part they succumb to copying one another. The long-overdue rise of African-American chefs around the country is the most exciting culinary movement in the world. And the egg salad one made Instagram-famous by its orange-yellow yolk half-moons. We know. Find the best Restaurants near you on Yelp - see all Restaurants open now and reserve an open table. So not only does this place turn out pastries and coffee and savory food at the highest level, but there’s also a high-key bread program? Their restaurant is housed in a nondescript building in a rapidly developing neighborhood clamoring more for taprooms and barbecue joints and taprooms-slash-barbecue joints than for an austere-looking tasting-menu spot. It’s Surti’s party and he’ll slice spiced roast pork if he wants to. This is the thing about Konbi, a tiny sandwich shop that has received, since before it even opened, an inordinate amount of attention. May 21, 2019 Advertisement. And once I tried the deep-fried tripe chicharrones and the musubi-like moutsayhang (a two-bite stack of crispy pork patty, sticky rice, and a thin layer of omelet), it was clear that Sirisavath was telling a story all his own. Albena ia a minimalist, eight-seat tasting counter serving a playful multi-course … It’s a place to chow down and loosen up as you distribute warm embraces to friends from the old neighborhood and friends you just met fifteen minutes ago. THE PLAYERS: Chef-owners Andrew Manning, Megan Fitzroy Phelan, and Patrick Phelan, THE SETUP: Tweezer food you actually want to eat. Always remember: “Simple” doesn’t mean “easy,” and the size of a place is no indication of its ambition. Server Destany Colagrossi works the lunch shift. The scent: eucalyptus, but, like, real, woodsy eucalyptus—not potpourri-esque. How she sought asylum in the U.S. a decade ago as an openly gay woman. Get tickets to the Hot 10 party. It’s personal, direct, honest. The Kir Royale (right) comes in a Nick & Nora glass with subtle lace etching made by British company Steelite. Wayan at 20 Spring Street, It's the team-up of the year: Chef Kwame Onwuachi of Kith/Kin in Washington, D.C. and Chef Cédric Vongerichten of Wayan in New York are cooking up something good to help us celebrate 38 years of Best New Restaurants. The owners of the thirty-five-year-old Gotham Bar & Grill kicked off a summer skirmish when they bid farewell to downtown stalwart Alfred Portale and replaced him with Chilean culinary firebrand Victoria Blamey, whose hold-nothing-back approach to acid and spice is a far cry from the tuna tartare of yore. I’d duck in among the neighborhood regulars for sesame noodles or nasi lemak: a coconutty rice bowl topped with crispy-crunchy crumbles of teeny little fried anchovies dressed in a sweet-spicy sambal. —J.K. But you’re not incorrect to detect a Vongerichtenish touch (bold flavor being something of a family heirloom) in the way the mango plays with the mint. How she hasn’t seen her parents in 11 years. Designed to resemble a tree trunk, the bar’s back wall was crafted by Kern Studios, which also carves the Styrofoam figures on Mardi Gras floats. Antonio Bachour, raised in Puerto Rico, has become an Instagram star because of his jewel-like, wildly creative sweets, but at his new full-service restaurant in the Miami area, we also get to see how a virtuoso baker can work miracles with a Cuban sandwich and an avocado toast. I apologize to anyone who was sitting near me—although eventually the same thing happened to them. W e hear you—literally. The counter-service restaurant features a 20-seat dining room but is currently open for takeout. Nari at 1625 Post Street, The name means “good times” in French, of course, and what’s impressive about Bon Temps is that you can interpret that however you want. Black Lives Matter. Top 10 New Restaurants for 2019...and the results of our annual Readers' Restaurant Poll. The brand: Kerzon. These Are the Best New Restaurants of 2019, According to Food&Wine. Led by James Beard nominated chef-operator Ben Grupe, Tempus is a serious restaurant full of radiant ideas, surgical execution and, most importantly, delicious food. Green Almond Pantry at 1314 Ninth Street NW. Celery (yeah, celery) will be ignored no longer after it takes a tumble with dates, pistachios, and the pheromonal fish sauce called colatura. Its sheer popularity should make it a maddening place (and a maddening choice for best new restaurant). THE PLAYERS: Chef-owners Jessica Hicks and Daisuke Hughes, THE SETUP: The dream of a sun-soaked bakery/café, THE ORDER: Spiced scrambled eggs with tzatziki, a seasonal Danish, and an Anzac cookie. —J.K. Together they transformed the 1860s Catholic church and schoolhouse into 71 hotel rooms unlike any other—plus magical open-to-the-public spaces like this very bar. Get tickets to the Hot 10 party. I’ve thought about what it was that compelled me to go back the next day, this time to the take-out window, for another omelet sandwich, sliced in three segments and set in a little white box of just the right size. The pasta drying room features a large glass window that looks into the restaurant's main dining room. "The most iconic dish Indians make at home," says Surti: We've adapted these addictive ribs so you can make them at home with excellent results. The pair built Le Comptoir as an homage to a neighborhood restaurant in Lyon of the same name, which Mester liked so much that he convinced the chef to let him spend a night in the kitchen. Here are 12 of the best this month. Come back in the a.m.—there is no better breakfast than trout and grits. Via Carota. Vicedomini’s got a thing for trailers—they remind him of Texan barbecue titans (Franklin Barbecue, La Barbecue) but feel distinctly Portland, with all its food carts. And how is it even fair that Whitaker nabbed chefs Kodi Simkins and Sean May, of Frasca Food & Wine fame, to make his whole freaky vision come alive? The brains behind the megahits Uncle Boons and Uncle Boons … Best New Restaurants 2019. Gallic songbirds trilled from an old reel-to-reel machine. Given what they were able to pull off with a wood-fired oven and two camping burners, I was very curious about how they’d do in an actual kitchen. December 1, 2020 —Kevin Sintumuang. Best Dining in New Orleans, Louisiana: See 426,766 Tripadvisor traveler reviews of 1,873 New Orleans restaurants and search by cuisine, price, location, and more. Shrimp blanketed in rémoulade on a crunchy bed of fried green tomatoes. There was anchovy broth loaded with rustic hand-cut noodles for pan mee; fried belacan wings coated in caramelized shrimp paste; squishy squares of honeycomb cake. Because before each course in the “dinner-party-style” tasting menu—eight to 10 dishes, two seatings each night—Surti stands in front of the room and gives. And the generous big-meat family-style entrées. Something about sleeping in a former convent gave me the creeps. Red Hook Tavern at 329 Van Brunt Street, Here’s the plan. Jeff Gordinier, Esquire’s Food & Drinks editor, has been logging countless miles for the past 12 months, crisscrossing this big country looking for the best eats, the best drinks, the best backstories, the best vibes. They all come piled with scrambled eggs and potatoes and salsa onto unbelievably puffy flour tortillas made with rendered lard. You want to, though. The muffin selection changes with the seasons: These are Apple-Honey-Pecan. You can make a meal out of gulf shrimp showered in bottarga breadcrumbs or steamed mussels in smoky tomato broth—this is not a town that messes with dainty bar snacks. Seven Reasons at 2208 Fourteenth Street NW, Esquire's Best Restaurants in America, 2018, Esquire's Best New Restaurants in America 2015, The Best New Restaurants in America, 2013. Explore other popular cuisines and restaurants near you from over 7 million businesses with over 142 million reviews and opinions from Yelpers. Now, in a strip mall in East Dallas—an area once home to many Southeast Asian refugees in the late ’70s and early ’80s—Sirisavath serves a menu inspired not by books or classes or other restaurants but by his own singular vision, rooted in family and place. Surti’s storytelling suffuses the space and the food served within it with so much vulnerability and personality and love that you could not possibly be anywhere but “our home,” as he refers to the restaurant. Book your tickets now for Esquire's Taste of Two Cities at Wayan—featuring a four-course dinner with wine, cocktails, and good conversation, of course—through Resy. As much as I tried otherwise, I kept picturing the World War II–era schoolhouse in Au Revoir les Enfants (a strangely seminal movie in my childhood). The dan dan noodles, the sandwiches with pork belly and five-spice beef, the thousand-layer pancake with egg and cheese—all of it practically shimmering with just-cooked freshness. 8:46 a.m. That’s why it’s so refreshing to find two new sanctuaries with plenty of local soul. But did Whitaker really have to take the leftover bran from milling that flour and use it to ferment all sorts of electric, eyebrow-raising pickled vegetables? THE PLAYERS: Chef-owners Akira Akuto and Nick Montgomery, THE SETUP: Daytime-only Japanese sandwich counter, with stellar French pastries, THE ORDER: Layered omelet sandwich, potato salad, chocolate croissant. First of all, it’s a full-on restaurant, from chef Alex Harrell and the team behind the beloved NOLA hangout Bacchanal. And I realized: Sometimes I am kind of an idiot. I piled into the place with a bunch of friends and children, and the group devoured the fried Calabash crab claws with Old Bay aioli with such gluttonous alacrity that we had to ask for a second order, and then a third. Albena, Detroit. But try as you might to remain skeptical, there’s no denying the righteousness of that slow-smoked beef rib when chef Doug Adams slips on the black rubber gloves and starts carving you a slab. Chef Adam Evans, a product of Muscle Shoals, is paying homage to a specifically southern tradition of seafood cookery, and he’s doing it in a spacious, wide-windowed room that feels like a boat club where nobody’s a snob. Restaurants Italian West Village. Restaurants Thai Nolita. Best New Restaurants It’s the Year of the Indie: These 15 spots, all but one of which are independently owned, show off Chicago’s culinary scene at its charming, idiosyncratic best. Mirazur (Menton ... A Year of Dreams Deferred 2020 saw many aspiring entrepreneurs hit pause on plans for new restaurants … It’s about having a place where you feel immediately welcomed. Spiced Roast Pork With Fennel and Apple Salad. Go now. 1. THE PLAYERS: Chef/co-owner Kyo Pang and co-owner Moonlynn Tsai, THE SETUP: Counter-service Malaysian, any time of day, THE ORDER: Lobak (ground pork wrapped in tofu skins), nasi lemak, kuih lapis (layer cake), teh tarik (pulled tea). We’re rooting for her. Le Comptoir du Vin at 1729 Maryland Avenue, Allison Plumer is cooking what you want to eat when it’s Friday night and you’d prefer not to ruin your appetite with overthinking. THE MOVE: You want the (deliciously lard-y) flour tortillas. That’s why, of course, I have to keep coming back. Nine months ago I made a mental note of the tall teal bottle in a restaurant bathroom in Los Angeles. Bon Temps at 712 South Santa Fe Avenue. 2019 | Nolita. Subscribe Now, This content is created and maintained by a third party, and imported onto this page to help users provide their email addresses. The bran leftover from milling grains into flour is used to make fermented pickles, like this Napa cabbage seasoned with Calabrian chiles and dried anchovies. Sukiyaki with glass noodles, fermented tofu, coconut cream, and a soft boiled quail egg. Commence the evening with a mezcal pickleback infused with charred corn and smoked chiles and you’ll be drifting through the Hill Country before you know it. THE MOVE: Book a room at the Hotel Peter & Paul; pretend you live here. But Hutong, a Hong Kong must-visit that has opened an outpost in midtown Manhattan, fully delivers on the glorious promise of everything dim sum can be. Alta Adams. THE PLAYERS: Chef/managing partner Vivek Surti, THE SETUP: Gujarat meets the American South via a set menu. It’s a hang. But with rising star Ashleigh Shanti working side by side in the kitchen with Asheville luminary John Fleer, the history lesson happens to be delicious. THE PLAYERS: Chef-owner Kelly Whitaker, culinary director Sean Magallanes, chefs de cuisine Kodi Simkins and Sean May, pastry chef Jeb Breakell, THE SETUP: Handmade pasta and robata, so well executed that it works, THE ORDER: House pickles, chicken skewers, any pasta, large-format pork ribs. (That red miso panna cotta!). Mott Haven cafe La Morada is one of the small number of New York restaurants specializing in Oaxacan cuisine, and the family operation is best … Calling this a bar is an understatement. Joy at 5100 York Boulevard, All it said on the menu was “braised artichoke.” (Having grown up in California, I feel a kinship with artichokes, but it’s pretty easy to mess them up. Get the recipe: Rice Porridge with Dashi, Additional Reporting: Andy Baraghani, Molly Baz, Hilary Cadigan, Christina Chaey, Elyse Inamine, Sarah Jampel, Carla Lalli Music, Meryl Rothstein, Jesse Sparks, Amiel Stanek, Anna Stockwell, Art & Design: Chris Cristiano, Chelsea Cardinal, Bryan Fountain, Christa Guerra, Copy & Research: Brian Carroll, Greg Robertson, Susan Sedman, Special Thanks: Emma Fishman, Michelle Heimerman, Sasha Levine, Michele Outland, Carey Polis, Adam Rapoport, Annalee Soskin, David Tamarkin, Photographs by Michael Graydon + Nikole Herriott, At Konbi they crack dozens of eggs each day for the signature, The muffin selection changes with the seasons: These are, Max Leonard’s housemade bread comes served with, To make the crispy-crunchy topper for her. As Eater editors across the country dined at restaurants … And yet: They turn out the silkiest chicken liver pâté. I returned early the next morning: They weren’t out of the oven yet. I had a feeling about the Hotel Peter & Paul. Shoot us a message on the tip line. She’s the one you meet when you walk in and who can school you on the significance (both cultural and personal) of nasi goreng and corn fritters, lobster noodles and clams Jimbaran-style, which are so packed with flavor you might as well be biting into oceanic truffles. And that doesn’t even begin to tell the circuitous 15-year epic of the three chefs behind it. Behold Esquire’s Best New Restaurants, class of 2019, a list that celebrates what it means to eat well right now in America, with all its diversity and dynamism. Its sheer popularity should make it a maddening place (and a maddening choice for best new restaurant). 8 Tempus. Park’s Wagyu ragù—with long semi-scissored rice cakes flooded with a sweet, meaty Bolognese—might be my favorite dish of 2019. —J.K. This story begins with hand soap. Is there almost too much packed into each bite? No one’s complaining. Leftover lard from his restaurant Eem. 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